Rolex Submariner Serti

The story

The Rolex Submariner ref. 16613TS belongs to the final pre-ceramic generation of two-tone Submariner Date watches. The ref. 16613 succeeded the ref. 16803 before giving way to the ceramic-bezel ref. 116613 around 2008–2009. Its slender, tapered lugs and unidirectional aluminium-insert bezel preserve the proportions of this period, while the automatic calibre 3135 provides a quickset date and approximately 48 hours of power reserve. This 2005 example pairs a 40 mm steel and 18 ct yellow-gold case with a factory “Serti”, also called “Sultan”, dial. From the French sertir, meaning “to set”, the configuration replaces luminous hour plots with eight brilliant-round diamonds and three blue sapphires at 6, 9 and 12. Sunburst champagne and silver versions characterise the design; this example’s colour is unspecified. Pertempus describes its TS designation as identifying the transitional solid-lug case and factory gem-set dial. Presented as New Old Stock, it remains unworn in flawless factory condition, with original stickers, a rare survival decades after manufacture. Accompanied by its original box, it offers collectors the untouched presentation associated with a substantial secondary-market premium for NOS examples. For a wearer, the appeal is more immediate: gold against steel, gemstones catching changing light, and a watch whose first days on the wrist, and the memories they carry still lie ahead. Available to view by appointment.